I can show you how to tie that: a menswear thread

Discussion in 'General Advice' started by theprettiestboy, Jan 28, 2018.

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  1. theprettiestboy

    theprettiestboy wombatman

    I work in menswear, and people ask me questions about it a lot, so I finally made a thread!

    eta: other folks who know about this stuff are also welcome to answer questions or just discuss :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2018
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  2. hyrax

    hyrax we'll ride 'till the planets collide

    (camps out)

    what are your favorite knots for tying a tie? i love ties and am always looking for new knots! i normally do a half-windsor, since i like the shape and it looks better on my skinny neck and shoulders than a full windsor.
     
  3. How do I tell if a wool coat fits properly?
     
  4. Everett

    Everett local rats so small, so tiny

    what the heck is up with breaks in pants, like, is it fully a matter of preference or does having eg a full break Mean Something?

    (I always have to get pants hemmed or go to the womens petite section so pants lengths are on my mind)
     
  5. theprettiestboy

    theprettiestboy wombatman

    Ok so personally I'm boring and like a four in hand when I'm not wearing a bow tie. I like that it's assymetrical and it holds a dimple well, and it's super super fast to tie. It can look a little small so I tend to leave the knot a little loose to give it some body.

    There's nothing wrong with a half windsor though if you prefer symmetry in your knots. I personally feel the full windsor looks a little unweildly on most people, but that's a personal preference thing.

     
  6. hyrax

    hyrax we'll ride 'till the planets collide

    ooh thanks, i know that knot but i didn't know what it was called! i do use it sometimes. but yeah, i do like symmetry.

    i agree, i think full windsors only look good on certain people with certain outfits. i knew this really pretentious guy in college, who was very short and very skinny and ALWAYS wore a full windsor, and it just looked ridiculous to me. that knot is the entire width of your neck buddy.
     
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  7. theprettiestboy

    theprettiestboy wombatman

    Are we talking like a suit/sport coat or outerwear?

    If it's any consolation, about half the guys I work with have to have their pants hemmed, which is why a lot of stores have a tailor in the back and most dress pants are sold unfinished.

    The break is a matter of preference up to a point, and in casual clothes it's one of those rules that can be broken for aesthetic, like if you wanted to get super long jeans and then roll them up that's totally a thing people do.

    In dress pants things are a little more strict, and the rule of thumb tends to be that the shorter you are the less of a break you should have. I feel that a full break looks a bit long on most people, and I'd go for medium/half at the longest.

    Technically no break is the most in style rn, or even shorter (see all the red carpet dudes with no socks and 5 inches of ankle showing), but unless you're in nyc or milan anything from no break to medium/half should really be fine.

    pant-break2.jpg

    (edited for spelling)
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2018
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  8. Codeless

    Codeless Cheshire Cat

    I have to admit aesthetically, I´ve always prefered no break, the other version to me always look like the guys pants are too long.
     
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  9. theprettiestboy

    theprettiestboy wombatman

    The issue that some people have with no break is that it comes up really high when you sit, and it tends to show your sock when you walk. Whether that's a good thing depends a lot on how you feel about the fashion sock and no sock trends going around right now. I love the fashion sock thing personally and tend to prefer either no break or a slight/quarter break but it's definitely a less conservative look.

    (your socks, btw, should always match your pants in color if you aren't wearing funky statement socks)
     
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  10. Saro

    Saro Where is wizard hut

    Is it okay to wear funky statement socks or is that like gauche and distasteful?
     
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  11. theprettiestboy

    theprettiestboy wombatman

    Also I'm laughing real hard because I've been seeing ankles referred to as cleavage for men and it really does get treated similarly on the snobbier end of menswear. Showing a bunch of ankle gets read as provacative and maybe a bit sexy, and I even had an old lady say it was "disgusting" that she could see a man's socks. Make of that what you will I guess I just think it's hilarious.
     
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  12. theprettiestboy

    theprettiestboy wombatman

    It's totally ok in all but the most conservative venues! It's actually very in style rn, which I think is great. So I wouldn't neccesarily wear them to court, or a board meeting, but for regular office wear and so on they're fine.
     
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  13. Codeless

    Codeless Cheshire Cat

    By the way, how doesone take in vets/waistcoats? I have some which are too big and I want to take them in without accidentially turning them into femme garments.
     
  14. hyrax

    hyrax we'll ride 'till the planets collide

    my grandpa always wore pants with no break, and when he sat down they rode up to mid-calf, WELL above his socks. which, i'm into showing a little sock for #fashion reasons, but showing your full hiked up sock plus a couple inches of leg is... not my aesthetic, to say the least.

    i've always had a similar issue, and even half breaks will show my socks when i sit. moreso if i cross my legs, which i prefer to do. (is this related to leg length? i have pretty long legs. also pretty long arms.)
     
  15. theprettiestboy

    theprettiestboy wombatman

    This one I'm only partly qualified to answer, but I have marked things for alterations and watched our tailor work. I know that vests generally get taken in along the side seams.

    Jackets are more complicated and it depends on the construction of the coat as well as where it's too big. Something with a single vent in the center of the back usually gets taken in along the seams on either side in the back, and a double vented coat can be taken in in the center of the back or very slightly along the sides. I hope that helps? (Anyone who knows more about tailoring is welcome to hop in here if they're around)

    This does seem to be partly related to leg length, yeah. It's pretty common, and part of why over the calf/knee length socks are a thing. That might be a good option if you find mid calf socks just aren't doing the trick for you. Going with a longer break will help a little but probably won't fix the issue.

    Generally your socks are going to show when you sit, that's perfectly normal. It's just a question of how much.
     
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  16. @theprettiestboy the coat is an outerwear I think. Three buttons in the front, plus a nonexistent top button on the... flap. (There’s hole for it though). It goes down to about my knees in the back, I don’t have it with me so I may be off a bit.
     
  17. Codeless

    Codeless Cheshire Cat

    Ty! (would also appreciate input from people who know, especially who know about plus sized tailoring)
     
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  18. theprettiestboy

    theprettiestboy wombatman

    Ah ok, sounds like a 3/4 length overcoat probably. Those are usually meant to be worn over suits, but can also be worn more casually. The big thing with them is that you should be able to layer comfortably.

    The shoulders of the coat should sit comfortably without hanging off your shoulders, and if you tug on the front you should have at least 2 inches but not more than 6 between the front of the coat and your chest.

    You can get away with it being a little big with outerwear, but if you don't have room for a bulky sweater and a scarf it's too small.
     
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  19. Codeless

    Codeless Cheshire Cat

    Btw is this the formal menswear only zone or are discussions of alternative style also ok? (Something I knowa bit about, in terms of resources)
     
  20. theprettiestboy

    theprettiestboy wombatman

    All menswear is welcome here!
    I love alternative styles, the more formal stuff is just what I work with personally.
     
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