In which derpy isn't a fashion designer (but is designing a fashion line)

im learning advanced tailoring and need some help! I finally got sick of things not fitting or not looking right! Im going full aspie on this!

post clothing ideas or ideal outfits! winter hat/mitten sets, clothes, coats, swim suits! everything!

anything goes! and style, gender, use, or season!

mood boards! polyvores! pinterests!


Id really appreciate the inspiration and direction! ill be posting updates on what im working on.

(anything sewing or knitting related, but not crochet, im still learning that)


edit:
anybody type!

https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/24654/ECNO1382.pdf?sequence=1

here's a ref for people ^ (just for 'womens' clothes tho sorry. i dont have one for 'mens')

 

you should do waistcoats. and stuff w the inner seams covered so they don't rub and cause spd problems

 

https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/24654/ECNO1382.pdf?sequence=1

here's a ref for people ^ (just for 'womens' clothes tho sorry. i dont have one for 'mens')

 

How much are you interested in a rant about things I wish I could see in plus size fashion?

 

increadibly. hit me with it!

 

So this is probably not useful but I'd love to see stuff with pleats/smocking/something from those pattern magic books that's actually wearable for adults. I suppose that would work for quite structured waistcoats/jackets and dresses. Pockets! Actually just give everything good sized pockets and it'll be perfect.

 

pattern magic books?

 

Seconding pockets! Also, stuff that works for someone who's short and plus-sized, although I realize that might be somewhat more difficult.

 

http://www.laurenceking.com/us/pattern-magic/ This ridiculous thing. I love the idea of the construction work in the garments but the actual projects in all the books are just nothing anyone would wear in real life. (this is a link to buy the book but there are pdfs of all three of them online if you really look and apparently it doesn't matter too much if they're in Japanese but idk)

 

ok what would you guys like to see or have in plus size or short fashion? or what dont you like about whats available for your body types?

 

A lot of plus sized fashion is just either unattractive, or it's not well-designed. I'm talking "took the most boring fabrics" and "did the design equivalent of just photoshopping the garment so that it's a larger size without actually adjusting for fit"; tops and dresses are the main issue for me here, because it's not just that I have a bit of a gut - it's that I've got a large bust, and most things with enough room to accommodate that without being too tight in the shoulders hang like I'm wearing a sack. And button-ups are awkward - even the ones that fit well tend to have a button pop open at some point, usually in an awkward location, or there's a visible gap between the spots that are buttoned and the rest of the fabric; I know some people end up adding snap closures in between the buttons to work around that problem.

For short fashion - most of what I can find isn't age-appropriate; it's all geared towards someone in their early to mid teens, and I'm in my late twenties. When I do find stuff that's age-appropriate, it's generally "casual hanging-out clothes" or "going out for a fun night" type clothes, never stuff that I'd be comfortable wearing in a work setting. (And petite pants rarely actually fit me well - I have short legs and plus-sized hips and waist; if it fits me in the waist and hips, I'm needing to roll the cuffs up and hem them so that I'm not stepping on them.)

 

ok this one in particular is in regards to a dress that i keep forgetting to take to the tailor, cause it's like. i am the first person to hate it when people conflate plus size fashion with maternity clothing, but one thing that would really come in handy is the stretchy fabrics they use for belly-accomodating stuff, but only like, not used for the belly.
So this dress I got is really pretty, structured, made with a nice sturdy fabric; and because it was made by a company that thinks fat people are just larger, not distributted differently, i had to order two sizes up for it to fit at the waist.
The bust area is absolutely enormous.

I think a lot of it could be lessened if there was, like... Side panels made of that stretchy fabric. That way, there'd be a range of bust sizes that could comfortably wear a piece without having to tailor it, or a least having to do much less extensive (and thus expensive) tailoring.

Other things I wish I saw in plus size fashion: wide skirts: I have a pretty sharp demarcation between hip and leg and all the tube dresses that look gorgeous in people with hips just look lumpy on me; any kind of dress that isn the "wide sack gathered at the waist", which is the only other type of dress people seem to make plus size; work/office attire that is actually decent looking. I'm an old goth baby so stuff that nods to the aesthetic without being too overtly hot topic teenage-ish, although that's a bit hard to explain. PRINTS THAT ARENT GODAWFUL. Plus size collections that actually follow general fashion trends and not just slap a fresh new coat of horrible ugly print vaguely related to the general idea of the trends this season.

I'm going to go back on this with pictures later because I have this sort of enormous bone to pick but I'm on mobile rn and also having a bad brain week

 

Ooh. Side panels that allow for stretching so that the bust and the waist fit without the need for extensive tailoring would be good, yeah. I'm going through Project Runway right now (on season 3!) and I don't have a lot of coherent words about plus-sized and short fashion beyond what I've already given rn, just "not that? why did that guy put her in what's basically a sack with a shawl, and not even nice-looking ones, those colours wash her out and make her look very dour".

 

ok lets start here with fit. you guys mention the differences of fit between average and plus size bodytypes. how would you descibe the differences in weight distribution? most clothing is originally designed for a 'boy' (not curvy) shape with a maximum of a bcup in bust. when adjusting for fit what would you reccomend? from what youve said and what ive found when i looked into it. the "potato sack" problem is highly common, so is tightness in the shoulders and bust, as well as loose fitting along the waist in silhouette tops and dresses. also "sack" skirts, and pants that are disproportional with the hip and leg.

ive never been plus sized so you might need to treat me like an idiot till i understand, sorry :(

 

thighs, stomach and upper arms. and I don't have much of a bust, so things that fit the rest of me will be too loose in the chest

 

No problem!
It's complicated to talk about fit, because there is a big variety in fat body shapes even within the same weight rage. I have a body were most of the fat is in the belly - my only bra in the american system is a... 40 or 42C, i think, so i don't have a lot of boobage going on - and i have a flat ass that tapers into relatively thin legs for my weight, which is the well-known muffin effect. Other people are bottom-heavy and have most of their weight in their tights, and one classmate i have has the inverted triangle body shape - she has an ample bosom and a lot of shoulder and very very tiny itty bit hips.
Tanisha Awasthi and Ju Romano are more bottom-heavy plus size girls, as are most plus size models - see the smooth hip curve? that's the thing i don't have - while Paula Bastos is more top heavy. Soo the problem is that there isn't just one shape that's going to fit all body types, although you cam make stuff that fits many of them (and that's where the sack dress, lowest common denominator of all fashion, ends up).

 

so I mostly have trouble finding stuff that fits me at the waist/hips without being too large in the shoulders/bust (like the dress i mentioned; i really need to go take pics...), while a lot of people have a different issue. i think any collection specific for plus size people has to take into account the two most basic body shapes (designing clothes for middle heavy ppl like me is sorta hard, i know), while they usually either favor one (and that is generally the 'prettier' bottom-heavy shape) ir just exxagerate the measurements of the normal clothing without taking into account that, like, i'm fat and i dont have two meter long legs. (that is a big problem with jeans, and i'm relatively tall for a brazilian woman). or just make sack clothes.

 

I've got a body where most of the weight goes into boobs and gut. Possibly some of it goes to my hips or butt, too, I do have stretch marks on my hips, but the most noticeable is that I've got hella boobs (36 FF cup in American measurements) and a bit of a belly.

I second that sleeves at the upper arm have a tendency to be tight, but I'd written that off to "designed for someone younger".

 

could you elaborate on this?